kaks õde

Café · Guesthouse · Vormsi

Kaks Õde

In the heart of Vormsi island. You arrive, you put your phone down, and the island does the rest.

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An oak headboard against grey panelling, with a candle and a glass vase of dried grasses on the bedside table.

Vormsi is in no hurry.

Our house is old. Wide pine floorboards, panelling halfway up the wall, and above it a pattern that was here before we were. In the evening you light a candle. In the morning the light wakes you, not an alarm.

Kaks Õde is both a guesthouse and a café. The old house to sleep in, a hearty breakfast to wake to — and between them, as much island as you feel like.

The guesthouse

A room in an old house

Kaks Õde is a guesthouse and small hotel on the island of Vormsi — six rooms in one old house, four upstairs and two down.

Every room holds something old. An oak headboard, a chest of drawers that was somebody's grandmother's, a rag rug whose stripes never repeat.

Beds are made up in plain cotton and towels are waiting at the foot of them. Linen curtains at the window don't stop the sun, they only soften it.

Evenings are quiet. Quiet enough that you can hear the wind change direction in the birch.

Rooms
Six — four upstairs, two down
Beds
to confirm
Bathroom
to confirm
Kitchen
to confirm
Breakfast
to confirm
Wi-Fi
to confirm
Parking
to confirm
Check-in
to confirm
An attic bedroom with dark panelling, a wooden bed, a lit lamp and dried grasses in a vase.
A grey buttoned armchair in front of pale panelling and floral wallpaper.
A sitting room with checked wallpaper and grey panelling, a grey chesterfield sofa and a dark wooden table on a rug.
An attic room with blue-grey panelling, an old oak chest of drawers and wide pine floorboards.
A narrow hallway with floral wallpaper, a striped rag rug and an open door into a bedroom.
A bright room with checked wallpaper, a wooden bed and a balcony door hung with linen curtains.

The café

The red house

In summer everything happens outside. Mosaic-topped tables against the red boards, cushions on the chairs, and lavender that smells louder than it looks.

The menu lives on a chalkboard, and the chalkboard changes — it depends on what's good that day. No point writing it down. Come and have a look.

Dishes that have been on the board

  • Solyanka
  • Fries with truffle mayonnaise
  • Tempura prawns
  • Chicken wings with bacon mayonnaise
  • Salt-cured salmon salad
  • Prawn salad in potato jackets
  • Slow-cooked ribs
  • Slow-cooked duck leg
  • Kaks Õde — cocktail or mocktail
Open
to confirm
Season
to confirm
Tables
to confirm
Two wrought-iron chairs and a table against red board cladding, a chalkboard menu on the table and lavender flowering in front.
A white door in a red boarded building, with a small table and two chairs beside it and an old cartwheel leaning on the wall.

The island

Ormsö

In Swedish the island was called Ormsö. Coastal Swedes lived here from at least the 13th century. Three thousand people lived on Vormsi before the war; in the autumn of 1944 almost all of them left across the sea for Sweden. Around four hundred live here now.

You can feel it. The roads are empty and the junipers are low. In the churchyard at Hullo stand more than three hundred ring crosses — the largest surviving collection anywhere — and beside them the medieval church of St Olav.

You can cycle from one end of the island to the other in half a day. At Rumpo the land runs out slowly, Saxby lighthouse stands at the far edge, and in between there are juniper meadows, coastal pastures and more birds than people.

93 km²
Estonia's fourth-largest island
~400
year-round residents, many times that in summer
330+
ring crosses in the Hullo churchyard
45 min
by ferry from Rohuküla to Sviby

Getting here

Rohuküla → Sviby

The ferry to Vormsi leaves from Rohuküla harbour and takes about forty-five minutes. Rohuküla is roughly ten kilometres from Haapsalu and a hundred and ten from Tallinn.

Bring the car across, or leave it at Rohuküla and come over on foot — a bicycle is the better way to see the island anyway. In summer and over holidays, book a car space on the ferry well ahead.

Address
Uus-Irjase, Hullo, Vormsi, Estonia
The corner of a bed against pale panelling, with a candle and a glass vase of dried grasses on the table.
A spacious attic room with two beds, two pale armchairs and a sloping ceiling.

Booking

Come and stay

You can't book on this website — that's on purpose. Check dates and prices on Booking.com, or call and we'll sort it out between us.

Booking.com Call us — +372 5343 4152

Availability and prices live on Booking.com, which keeps the calendar correct without anyone having to maintain it here. For anything urgent, or for a longer stay, calling is always quicker.